This Lesbian Visibility Week, let’s look at the pioneers reflecting us in clothing
BY SHANNON MOYCE, IMAGE BY PEXELS
It’s Lesbian Visibility Week, and we’re celebrating our favourite sapphic fashion designers. From new, emerging talent to icons that paved the way for future generations, it’s important to see who is shaping the fashion industry.
Ella Boucht
London-based Finnish designer Ella Boucht is addressing the underrepresentation of lesbianism within the fashion industry. In an interview with Metal, discussing their graduate collection Butch they said: “I wanted to create something that truly represented the lesbian community because when looking for something like this myself I was shocked at how few designers were specifically serving this audience.” Ella focuses not just on making clothes that reflect the lesbian experience but also creating teams that reflect that too. Ella Boucht told Dazed: “When it’s a queer team, it’s a meeting of minds, coming from an authentic perspective, and there’s interest in building up our community.”
Dorothy Todd and Madge Garland
Although neither of them were fashion designers, they still had an impact on the fashion industry, changing how we view Vogue, the most influential fashion media. Vogue was launched in 1892, and the British edition followed in 1916. In 1923, Dorothy Todd, an openly gay woman, became the second editor of British Vogue. Madge Garland, who was also working at Vogue, met Dorothy Todd. As their relationship developed, Dorothy promoted Madge to fashion editor. Together, they changed how Vogue is viewed today. As Dorothy Todd wrote in the 1925 edition of Vogue: “Vogue has no intention of confining its pages to hats and frocks.” Their editorial vision, which broadened Vogue’s content beyond mere fashion, helped create a space where lesbian voices and perspectives could be seen and heard.
Sinéad O’ Dwyer
Sinéad O’Dwyer has been central to discussions surrounding recent runways, and she was at the forefront of discourse during the lesbian renaissance summer, with her iconic SS25 collection. Her creation of openly lesbian art could be attributed to her time at Savage Ranch, a queer artistic commune in Southern California, and her move to art school in North Carolina, where she had her first girlfriend; as she told HERO, she “went wild”. Her use of form-fitting, stretchy materials focuses on body positivity and inclusiveness in all senses, while still reflecting her identity as a queer woman. In an interview with Vogue, she reiterated the importance of representation, saying: “Obviously, representation is such an important part of changing the industry.”
Hana Holquist
Hana Holquist challenges the boundaries of femme fashion. Her dramatic, avant-garde designs challenge the concept of the male gaze. “As a lesbian, I’ve never felt the need to cater to men or the male gaze,” she states, according to Out magazine. Hana Holquist’s dramatic dresses and structured corsets, that focus on feminine strength, have become a symbol of powerful, unapologetic sapphic expression. Her emphasis on femininity is key to her fashion and presents a different perspective on queer fashion.
Becca McCharen-Tran
Becca McCharen-Tran is the founder of Chromat, an inclusive swim and activewear brand. Drawing from her architectural background, Becca McCharen-Tran incorporates structural elements into her garments. Chromat has designed custom pieces for some of the biggest names in music, including Charli XCX, Beyonce, and Nicki Minaj. Becca McCharen-Tran advocates for both inclusive clothing and the representation of lesbians within the fashion industry. In an interview with Teen Vogue, she said, “The fashion industry is definitely gay friendly, but I’m always looking for more lesbians and queer and trans women of colour in fashion though.” This has helped create a space where lesbians feel confident and represented in traditionally underrepresented areas of fashion.
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