This Women’s History Month, we take a look back at this bisexual star’s most famous looks
BY SHANNON MOYCE, IMAGE BY UNIVERSAL PICTURES
As Women’s History Month concludes, it’s important to honour some of the most legendary women who dared to redefine societal norms. Among them is Marlene Dietrich, a boundary-breaking actress and fashion trailblazer whose influence on LGBTQIA culture and style is still profound.
Curating the iconic look
Marlene Dietrich was a German-born actress who rose to prominence in the early 1920s. She secured her first major international role in the 1930 film Morocco. In this film, she played a cabaret performer who wore an infamous tailored tuxedo and top hat and the film included a scene where she kissed another woman, a bold move for its time. When considering the roots of lesbian style and the enduring love for tailored suits, Marlene Dietrich’s influence is undeniable.
Throughout her career, she maintained this unforgettable look, consistently incorporating coats and tails, tailored suits, and a range of distinctive hats. In doing so, she actively broke gender norms and challenged traditional notions of femininity.
Beyond Morocco, films like Blonde Venus and Desire further solidified her signature look. This could be seen in scenes where she confidently strode in impeccably cut suits or lounged in silk pyjamas that blurred the lines between masculine and feminine. This wasn’t just a fashion statement – this was an act of defiance against the restrictive gender roles of the era. As she said in a 1960 interview with The Observer, “I dress for the image, not for myself, not for the public, not for fashion, not for the man.”
Family Influence
The influence of her father, a police lieutenant, and her mother, in the jewellery business, shaped Marlene Dietrich’s understanding of both power and beauty. This unique blend of influences was clear in her style, where she incorporated elements of military wear, such as structured jackets and sharp lines while juxtaposing them with luxurious accessories. This deliberate contrast, the fusion of strength and glamour, became a hallmark of her unique aesthetic, reflecting both the discipline of her upbringing and the opulence of her mother’s world.
Glamour and Debonair
As a cabaret performer in her later career, Marlene Dietrich artfully played with the contrast between feminine and masculine. She’d begin her shows in glamorous ballgowns paired with beautiful fur coats, famously declaring that “Glamour is what I sell, it’s my stock and trade.” Then, with a dramatic change, she would reappear in her signature tuxedo and top hat. This seamless shift highlighted her mastery of androgynous style, demonstrating the power of blurring gender lines on stage.
Beyond Fashion
Marlene Dietrich’s influence extends beyond fashion. Her well-documented affairs with both men and women cemented her status as a bisexual icon as well as a fashion icon. Her frequent visits to gay bars, and her coded language, referring to her lesbian lovers as “sewing circles” further highlighted her connection to the LGBTQIA community. The 1955 edition of Confidential magazine marked a turning point, boldly stating, “Because in the millions of words that have been written about Dietrich’s dalliances, you’ve never, until now, read that some of them were not with men!” This public acknowledgement brought her bisexual identity into sharper focus.
As well as being an advocate for the LGBTQIA community she also played an active role during World War II. Refusing requests to return to Germany, she renounced her German citizenship and instead performed along the front lines for Allied soldiers. Her performances, including renditions of “Lili Marlene”, became a source of comfort and morale for the troops, showcasing her commitment to freedom and justice.
Marlene Dietrich’s legacy continues to resonate today. Her bold defiance of gender norms and her unapologetic embrace of her sexuality have paved the way for contemporary artists and activists. Her androgynous style, a blend of masculine tailoring and feminine glamour, remains a powerful influence on modern fashion. Marlene Dietrich was, and remains, a true icon, whose bravery and style continue to inspire generations.
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