To celebrate the release of Mayhem, let’s take a look back at some of her most iconic looks
BY SHANNON MOYCE, IMAGE BY FRANK LEBON
With the arrival of Mayhem, Lady Gaga is finally back on our radar. This new era already hints at a return to her raw, signature sound, fuelling anticipation for the experimental and avant-garde fashion that has become her hallmark. How, though, did Lady Gaga cultivate such an enduring legacy as a groundbreaking fashion icon? Let’s delve into her journey.
Experimental Shock Value
Reflecting on Lady Gaga’s early career, it’s immediately clear that she was a fearless innovator from the outset. Her commitment to pushing boundaries, even as a rising star, laid the foundation for her iconic status. The 2009 VMAs stands as a testament to this, a night remembered for several reasons including for her Best New Artist win and, more significantly, her performance of Paparazzi. In an embellished white bodysuit, she dramatically bled as the performance intensified, an unforgettable moment. Just a year later, the world witnessed the now legendary meat dress.
Though 15 years have passed since that VMA appearance, it remains a pivotal moment in her fashion evolution, despite the initial wave of criticism. That same night, she also walked the red carpet in an Alexander McQueen red, white, and blue gown, alongside discharged LGBTQIA military escorts, in direct response to the government’s Don’t Ask, Don’t Tell policy. While her outfits may have seemed extreme and controversial, the underlying message was profoundly important.
In response to criticism, Gaga explained the dress’s message: “When we die, the meat on our bones bears no sexuality, no difference. We should not discriminate against those willing to give their life to protect Americans. Because when our lives are taken, we are meat all the same.”
High Fashion
Lady Gaga’s desire to stand out and provoke proved irresistible to many designers, propelling her fashion from experimental extravagance to high-fashion artistry. She seamlessly bridged the gap between avant-garde performance art and mainstream fashion, becoming a muse and collaborator for some of the world’s most influential names, including Mugler, Versace, and Alexander McQueen.
Importantly, she built genuine friendships with these designers, proving that her collaborations were authentic, deeply rooted, and long-lasting. Take Nicola Formichetti, Lady Gaga’s former stylist and creative director at Mugler, who later became a key member of the Haus of Gaga.
The Haus of Gaga, her creative team, is a collection of artists that help Gaga in all creative aspects. Nicola Formichetti played a crucial role in her stylistic transformation, as seen at the 2011 CFDA Fashion Awards, where she wore a Mugler gown. This dress, featuring the brand’s signature architectural silhouettes, was notably more refined. With these looks, Lady Gaga transitioned from facing criticism to gaining respect within the high-fashion world.
Glamour
With this newfound respect from top designers and big labels, Gaga embraced a refined aesthetic. Entering a new era of glamour, perfectly aligned with her evolving artistic concepts. This era highlighted her use of designer connections, such as her goddess-like Versace gown at the 2014 Oscars, where she attended the Elton John AIDS Foundation viewing party. Subsequently, at the 2016 Oscars, she graced the red carpet in a stunning, classic ivory ball gown.
This shift towards glamour was not a rejection of her earlier shock tactics, but rather an evolution, enabling her to convey powerful messages that were subtler, yet equally impactful. As she said in an interview with Attitude: “I am here to always speak out about what is right and true for all of humanity. That people be loved.”
This glamour has still been a consistent thread throughout her fashion journey, shown by her UK premiere look for A Star Is Born, where she wore a Shakespearean-inspired Alexander McQueen gown. Its detailed gold embellishments and voluminous ruffles evoked a sense of theatrical grandeur. Yet, we’ve also seen glimpses of her signature rebellious spirit, as seen in her Super Bowl performance ensemble: a custom-made Versace bodysuit, its Swarovski crystal encrustations radiating a dazzling brilliance to the crowd.
Now, in this Mayhem era, we are seeing the return of her experimental style, but with a more gothic undertone. This new era promises to be another exciting chapter in Lady Gaga’s ever-evolving fashion legacy.
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