Are you more of a Flannel or lavender sapphic?
BY SHANNON MOYCE, IMAGE BY WIKIMEDIA COMMONS
The LGBTQIA community has a rich history of using fashion as a form of coded communication. These subtle signs, born out of necessity, allowed individuals to recognise each other and build community. Now in today’s society, while we may keep that notion alive, the use of signalling has changed slightly. We’ve moved from coded nods to increasingly visible expressions of identity, reflecting a shift towards greater visibility and self-acceptance within the queer community.
Lavender
One of the oldest signals in sapphic history is the use of purple, particularly lavender. This colour connects us directly to Sappho, the original lesbian icon, who wrote about violets and lavender to express her love for women, giving us those beautiful lines: “All the violet tiaras, braided rosebuds, dill and crocus twined around your young neck.”
Because of Sappho, purple became a coded signal, a way for women to recognise each other. It eventually became synonymous with the lesbian and wider LGBTQIA community, inspiring the name of the lesbian feminist group, the Lavender Menace. Their activism played a crucial role in paving the way for women’s and LGBTQIA rights. Even today, purple remains a subtle yet powerful nod within the queer community, appearing in pride merchandise, art, and fashion.
The Flannel
While it might seem like a dated stereotype, the association between flannels and lesbian culture is undeniable. This practical garment carries various connotations, including its historical connection to women who adopted traditionally masculine attire and worked in manual labour jobs dating back to wartime. This connection to practicality mirrors the symbolism of the carabiner. However, media portrayals have transformed the flannel into a commonly recognized item of clothing within the lesbian community. Recent discourse surrounding the character teen Shauna in Yellowjackets, who often wears flannels as she enters a new lesbian relationship, highlights the ongoing relevance of this fashion signal.
Rings
Beyond clothing, accessories also play a significant role in lesbian signalling. Rings hold a special place in lesbian culture, and this signal too holds historical meaning. While rings are often associated with traditional notions of love and commitment, their placement on the thumb became a historical act of rebellion for women. This signal stays prevalent today, amplified by the rise of the iconic “DYKE” ring created by I Kissed A Girl contestant Amy Spalding. This ring made its Hollywood debut when Renee Rapp was seen wearing the iconic jewellery.
New Signals
Now, a new generation is actively reclaiming and reinterpreting historical queer terms, forging fresh signals of identity. Consider, for instance, famous lesbian YouTuber and podcaster, Shannon Beveridge’s recent merchandise featuring “A friend of Dorothy.” While originally a coded term for gay men, derived from The Wizard Of Oz, Shannon Beveridge has reimagined it, expanding its meaning to allow individuals across the LGBTQIA spectrum to signal their belonging to the community. This merchandise also features the iconic carabiner, a definite lesbian signal.
These fashion signals are constantly evolving, showing how the LGBTQIA community is always finding new ways to express itself while still being able to recognise the historical elements that led us here.
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